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The fries, seasoned with togarashi and sprinkled with cotija cheese, are sturdy and crisp.

On the sweet side, the cocoa taco () is a cute waffle-cone-like crisp shaped into a taco and filled with chocolate ice cream and brownie cubes, among other sweet things, but what wowed me were the three churros (), doughnutlike circles dusted in cinnamon sugar.

I know I was wondering what to expect from this Near North restaurant helmed by Katsuji Tanabe of “Top Chef” fame.

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They make for a fine snack on their own, but where things really get interesting is when you get the tamales loaded.

They differ from ubiquitous Mexican tamales in that they are constructed from cornmeal instead of masa (nixtamalized corn), and cooked in a liquid instead of being steamed.

The regular red hot tamales () come three to an order and are astoundingly tender, all without a trace of grittiness.

The cornbread arrives in a cast-iron pan, is firm enough to slice neatly and eat in-hand, yet sports a texture so delightfully loose and crumbly that you may worry — needlessly — that it will fall apart.

Barrio offers a selection of tacos both traditional and “deconstructed” (that means you get to build them yourself). Sadly, you have to have the same filling in all three.

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